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Not for bad guys only

Early 1930s Stetson No. 1 Quality and a wonderful quality it was. 80 years and barely showing its age… just a bit of hattitude.

The Hat That Won the West

It wasn’t the wide brimmed cowboy hat, according to this 1957 article, but the hard rounded derby. From its emergence in mid-1800’s Britain until the rise in popularity of soft hats in the early 20th century, the bowler or derby (as it is known in the U.S.) was worn by everyone. Worn well,

and not so well.

by men at play,

and women at play,

…even anarchists agreed to agree on the bowler.

A poorly fitting bowler is torturous to wear, but conformed to the head, it’s a dream. This beautiful 1920s featherweight Premier Quality from Stetson is a favorite and among the most comfortable hats in my collection. 

If you are intrigued and want to learn more about the derby hat, pay a visit to the Hatted Professor, Brad Bowers.

A Clear Winner

If you shop for a western hat today you will see the effects of X-inflation. 10X, 100X even 1000X used to suggest quality levels in the felt hat body. I have a 1X nutria Stetson western from the 1920s that will beat the fur off off most any hat made today.

Here is a rare animal, a 1930s Stetson 5X Clear Beaver. Back in the days when this hat was manufactured, 5X Clear Beaver was top of the line. The felt finish is a joy to handle - finely pounced (sanded), but unlike western hats today, soft and supple too. The crown can be molded into any crease imaginable with your fingers… no steam required. Truly an amazing hat in incredible condition. Enjoy the photos!

$37.50 was a lot of hat dough in the 1930s.

Here compared to a fine quality 7X clear beaver western from the 1950s:

And here is what it looks like on:

Nutria-cious!

Ringing in the new with something old.

These three old Stetson cowboy hats from the 1920s/1930s are made from nutria… a charming name for a somewhat less than attractive rodent, originally from South America - now quite a nuisance in the southern United States. The nutria’s fur made a very soft and durable hat and became a popular felting fur as beaver became scarce and expensive in the early 1900s. 

The latest addition is this black furry Stetson with a 7” tall crown and 4”brim.

Here’s how I have it bashed:

This is the softest of the three hats with a very flexible brim. The ribbon is in good shape… the frayed edge of the bow is original.

The sweatband is soft and bears a mark “orange peel sheepskin.”

Originally purchased in Cheyenne, Wyoming, the hat spent most of its well cared for life in Woodstock, Vermont…

and is now moseying comfortably in Buffalo, NY.

Old No.1

I’m a sucker for old cowboy hats and this Stetson No.1 Quality western had my number written all over it. 1920s or 1930s, it’s hard to say for sure… patina from use but a lot of years left in the rugged felt. The store that sold it, Hamley & Co. founded in the 19th century is still in business today.

Old Faithful, part II

Yesterday I wore a faithful old western hat… approaching its 90th birthday, this Stetson 1X Nutria (X’s went a long way in those days) is a favorite. Nutria is a  water rodent which became a popular source for hats when beaver became scarce in the early 20th C. It makes a very soft and very durable felt.

Simple unlined interior, with “the Fray” sweatband giving the some evidence to its 1920’s vintage - a taped rear seam and round glued size tag. 

Fifty mile per hour wind gusts forecast for later today… will have to choose something with a narrower brim and little less history.